September 10th.

And sometimes, when I can’t anymore - I just let go 

Into the sun, the salt; the breathtaking temperature of Pacific waters

And I ride - rips, and currents, and swells, and tides 

Until that one time, in the face of ocean spray and sun rays

In the belly of the barrel or swell

That time when I know I can. 

 

And by letting go 

In her current 

I regain control in surrender 

Because, while riding roaring and crashing waves 

There is all that is calm and beautiful

Beneath the Ocean’s surface.